Gun Porn!

Something like that. That someone is not dead or injured firing that thing is astounding.

Tuffy I need your expert armorer's opinion on something spotted in Ukraine this past week.◊

What's the prognosis, do you think we can save him?

Edited by LeGarcon on Feb 21st 2023 at 12:30:20 PM

He got so hot he went flacid, I think that barrel is gone.

Holy shit. That gun is done. The barrel is a write-off. That kind of heat build-up has a nasty way of transferring to other parts. I would downline it and give it a long go-over to make sure nothing suffered damage from heat stress. The bolt needs a good eyeballing, any attach points might need replacing as well as any softer metal small parts. That is a good way to run into a catastrophic failure.

I say, to just dose it in cold water and leave that for the Russians to use.

Knowing the Russians they’ll pull being an Ork and it’ll actually still work despite that.

So don’t encourage Orkiness, take it off the field.

In more things that will cause Tuffy an anurisim....

The most glowing recomendation of hi-point ever◊

the fact that this didn't explode and kill him.

How? Just how?

The best part is that hi-point carbines only hold 8 rounds, and are designed specificly to not work with extended magizines....

Meaning this man fired off and reloaded at least 4 diffrent magizines without noticing.

I wonder how shitty the aim is with that guy for him to not notice that all his shots weren't hitting shit.

Wow. This thread's been empty since last year... Time to fix that:

https://youtu.be/gisbc8h1tAc?si=6W8NZiJC-96WvZp8

In the last year since this thread was active, I got an M14/M1A Loaded. It’s laser beam accurate even with just M80 ball ammo.

Also I’ve massively increased my knowledge of gunsmithing and armorer work. I replaced some of the internal components on the M1A to further improve the accuracy and consistency. Also I replaced the front sight and got an M6 bayonet for it.

Also I’ve learned and acquired the tools to fully disassemble AR (starting with AR-10) barrel nuts and handguards and more.

And the M1A required a trip to a professional gunsmith because my pin punch broke inside the roll pin on the stripper clip guide and I don’t yet have the tools to fix that. Because I’m prepping to mount a Sadlak scope mount and a 5-25 power scope.

Also am in the process of welding and filing down a DIY bayonet lug for my Zastava AK. I have one wing on, but the other didn’t have a good enough weld to stick for further snipping and filing down.

And I have a pair of new AR-15’s from Palmetto State Armory waiting to be picked up any day now. Also a PSA AK. All for new projects.

And panic buy because the Colorado legislature was trying to pass an assault weapons ban that was incredibly unpopular. Seriously public comment produced 4 to 1 minimum oppose to support respectively.

Maybe I should look into getting armorer’s courses and gunsmithing one’s for certifications and maybe a change of job?

Edited by MajorTom on May 13th 2024 at 4:46:42 AM

You could go all out with tools and detailed work, customization, accuracy, and general improvement. IIRC, Colorado has some decent gunsmithing schools and courses.

Oof breaking your pin punch sucks. If you have the equipment, you can begin machining your tools, including punch blocks that can help you punch out pins more easily.

I have a pin punch block and I had the gun in my gun vise. I believe I had a size punch too small for the roll pin and thus it went inside it.

Yes I was a dumbass for a moment.

It happens. Those rolled pins are a pain, especially if something malformed them. You can carefully bore it out if you have the right-sized drill bit. That is a huge pain as well because you have to go very slow.

I’ve had my first hands on lesson in headspacing today. I think it’s headspacing anyways.

Changing out the handguard on my PSA PA-10 to an Odinworks free floating one and I managed to somehow push the barrel in back too far before torquing the barrel nut and as a result upon reassembly, the BCG wouldn’t fit.

Solution? Undo the barrel nut, I pulled the barrel back out (briefly going too far the other way), then put the BCG and charging handle back in to their proper place and pushing the barrel back to that. Then torqued the barrel nut down to about 50 lbs or so said my wrench. Maybe a little less. (The vice wouldn’t let me do more lest I risk Flipping the Table.) Then fully reassembled the handguard and the gun fully. I pull the charging handle, the bolt goes back proper, I let it go and go back into battery, it clicks proper on an empty chamber when pulling the trigger. I pull the charging handle again and repeat and it does the same thing again without fail.

Now either I did it right and the gun will work fine or I have a ticking time bomb until it kabooms in my face.

Either that or I screwed the accuracy. But hey, hands on experience!

There should be some specs for how far it should sit that you can measure. Without a premade gauge, calipers will work. The M-16 can only be torqued down so far before you have a similar issue. There should also be a torque guide for how tight that barrel should be fitted.

You can do some bench tests. Ie clamp it, load it, and set it off with a long string to make sure. That and someone somewhere should know the specs.

Everything tells me the barrel nut needs about 40-60 lbs of torque. I got within that range.

I didn’t actually remove the barrel.

But I’m thinking of heading out to the woods tomorrow to go shoot it and some other stuff I be been working on. Get some zeroes on new optics, reset em on the PA-10 if necessary, and have some fun regardless.

Maybe I’ll find out my redneck engineering solution for my buffer retaining spring going bye bye when swapping a stock the other day works. I’m using the spring from a pen as substitute until an actual replacement spring arrives in the mail. It’s on my 18 inch Ruger AR and so far for manual action the gun works.

I know I’m not alone in having those little tiny detent springs flying off into the wild blue yonder never to be found again. The rear takedown pin spring did the same thing.

And normally I’m better at keeping track of that but my finger slipped during reassembly on that one and away it went. I heard it clack on something but after that I don’t know where. I’ll probably find it some day doing a cleanup.

Be very careful. Ballpoint pen springs are not quite the same as those detent springs. Something might slip or get mushed. Som of the pen springs are comparatively softer metals.

If you have to remove tricky springloaded parts wrap a plastic bag around it as you free it to catch them if they sleep.